Beetle’s Nest is the highest climbing crag in Islamabad’s Margalla Hills and the only multi-pitch sport climbing route. It features Islamabad’s finest quality rock with its face and crack climbing mix. Due to much sun exposure, it is ideal in winter and off-season.
Ideal Time/Season:
Best in winter and chilly spring/fall days. Too exposed for noon-day climbing in summer.
Access and Approach:
Travel from Islamabad to Said Pur village, walk straight through the village, cross the stream twice to where the valley forks. Take the right-hand turn off the main route.
Beetle’s Nest is on the right-hand slope, a bit higher up, opposite the Belvedere.
Time: ~15 minutes walk from Said Pur car park.
Safety Cautions
Unfortunately, some bolts have been removed (by locals, most likely). Always route check before climbing. Do not climb on lightly protected routes, and employ personal protection if the bolts are removed. Leave no sign and respect the local ways.
Climbing Style:
- Multi-pitch sport
- Face, slab, and overhang
- Technical and varied
Quick Facts
- Number of routes: 4 (1 multi-pitch, 1 pitch variation)
- Grades range: 4a to 7b+
- Route type: Multi-pitch sport (some lines have missing bolts)
- Max route height: ~120m
- Recommended rope length: Two 60m ropes for pitches & abseil
- Quickdraws needed: 12–14 per pitch
- Rock type: High-quality limestone
- Sun exposure: Full sun – ideal for winter
- Bolting status: Some bolts removed; inspect routes before climbing
- Developed by: GF, JS, MP, SD, 2008
- Route setters: Gernot Frank, Jens Sommerfeld, Marianne Pecnick, Stefan Dunkel
How to Get There
- Drive: To Said Pur village from Islamabad (15–20 min)
- Walk: Through the village → cross the stream twice → take right fork at valley split
- Trail: Beetle’s Nest is up on the right side of the main path
- Parking: Available in Said Pur village
Safety & Local Considerations
- Mobile Signal: Decent in most areas
- Water: None available—bring plenty
- Wildlife: Possible sightings of monkeys or boars
- Weather Hazards: Full sun exposure can make summer climbing risky
- Bolt Theft: Some routes have had bolts removed—check safety before climbing
Route Directory
1. Hang Loose [5b]
- Height: ~20m
- Bolts/Protection: Originally bolted, but may be missing
- Quickdraws: 6–8
- Crux: Steady slab movement
- Style: Slab
- First ascent: Stefan Dunkel (SD), 2008
- Recommendation: Warm-up route; check bolting before use
2. Saxony Ramp [5b] (Bolts removed)
- Height: ~20m
- Bolts/Protection: Bolts removed
- Style: Easy ramp/slab climbing
- First ascent: Jens Sommerfeld (JS), 2008
- Status: Not climbable as a sport route unless re-bolted
3. Teamwork [Multi-pitch]
- Total pitches: 4
- Total height: ~70m
- Descent: Abseil recommended (two ropes useful to descend directly from Pitch 2 belay)
i. Pitch 1 – [4a]
- Very easy slab to ringbolt
- Right past a tree to a ledge and bolt
- Note: Bolts removed on this pitch
- Recommendation: Only climb if re-bolted or led safely with natural protection
ii. Pitch 2 – [5c]
- Follow bolts right and up a crack
- Step down right to belay
- Crux: Crack exit moves
iii. Pitch 3 – [6b+]
- Start from tree
- Traverse right into crack, then left on jugs
- Crux: Dynamic balance as terrain steepens
iv. Pitch 4 – [6c+]
- Powerful roof start, followed by arête
- Crux: Very technical sequence just below the top
- Recommendation: One of Margalla’s best multi-pitch experiences
4. Maverick [7b+] – Pitch 3 Variation (Top-rope only)
- Height: ~25m
- Style: Roof + delicate face climbing
- Bolts/Protection: Not bolted – top-rope only
- Crux: Powerful roof moves; delicate transitions up the face
- Recommendation: Ideal project for strong climbers with top-rope setup
Topo / Crag Map
Community
Many independent international and local climbers based in Islamabad meet on weekends on the various crags, depending on weather and sunny conditions. Some adventure clubs like e-adventure.PK, Eco Adventure Club (EAC), and Gilgit-Baltistan Mountaineering Council organise climbing activities regularly. They can be reached through social media.
Acknowledgments
Thanks to Benedicte Terryn (BT), Gernot Frank (GF), Imran Junaidi (IJ), John Arran (JA), Jens-Jacob Simonsen (JJ), Jens Sommerfeld (JS), Karim Hayat (KH), Marianne Pecnick (MP), and Stefan Dunkel (SD) for their dedication to bolting and sharing their knowledge of this hidden climbing paradise in the Margalla Hills, Islamabad.
Author & Contact
Compiled by: M Ajmal K. Masood (Personal experience of climbing in Margallas)
Contact: ajmalkhayaloo121@gmail.com
Send route updates, bolt status reports, and topo contributions anytime!