Following a series of persistently adverse weather conditions that thwarted their initial objective of achieving the first ascent of Kurdophin Sar, Tyrolean alpinist Lukas Wörle and Slovenian elite climber Aleš Česen devised an audacious alternative plan, as reported by Der Standard. Upon their arrival at the base of Kurdophin Sar, they found the summit ridge burdened with substantial cornices and a formidable serac situated just below the peak. In light of the potential dangers, they redirected their focus towards the uncharted neighboring peak, the 6,224-meter Cherireen Sar. The team embarked on a three-day trek from the remote village of Shimshal, traversing one of the most perilous and breathtaking roads in the Karakoram, without encountering another individual. Their base camp, established at an altitude of 3,800 meters, was manned by a small team consisting of Wörle’s brother Vincent, who served as the photographer and videographer, alongside a cook, an assistant, and a solitary donkey tasked with transporting equipment. Once on the mountain, Wörle and Česen undertook their ascent unsupported, depending solely on their own skills, strength, and judgment.
After seventeen hours on the trail, they made it back to base camp, drenched but unharmed, having achieved the first recorded ascent of Cherireen Sar. Although they had to scrap their initial plan to paraglide from the top because of the weather, the thrill of completing a daring ascent in such a remote part of the Karakoram was more than enough of a reward.
Lukas Wörle (Austria)
Lukas Wörle, a 31-year-old mountaineer from Tyrol, Austria, is known for his preference for remote and unsupported climbs. He eschews the conventions of commercial high-altitude expeditions, stating, “True mountaineering involves exploration without fixed ropes, supplemental oxygen, or assistance”, reports, Der Standard.
In recognition of his bravery during a rescue operation on Broad Peak in 2023, Wörle was awarded the Tamgha-i-Pakistan, one of the highest civilian distinctions in Pakistan. During his descent from the summit ridge, he discovered Murtaza, a Pakistani high-altitude porter, lying in the snow and unable to move. Despite not knowing Murtaza’s name or affiliation, Wörle selflessly dragged and pushed him toward safety. Murtaza sustained frostbite but ultimately survived and later located Wörle at base camp to express his gratitude in person.
In addition to his remarkable climbing accomplishments, Lukas Wörle was celebrated at the Pakistani Embassy in Berlin in May 2025 for his heroic actions during the Broad Peak rescue, where he received the Tamgha-i-Pakistan. His mountaineering principles—minimalism, self-reliance, and a spirit of exploration—serve as a striking contrast to the growing commercialization of high-altitude climbing.
Aleš Česen (Slovenia)
At the age of 43, Česen is regarded as one of the most distinguished Slovenian climbers of the 21st century and is the son of the renowned Tomo Česen, after whom one of the routes on K2 is named. He has been honored with the Piolet d’Or on two occasions, which is the pinnacle of achievement in alpinism:
- 2015 – He achieved the first ascent of the north face of Hagshu (Indian Himalaya) alongside Marko Prezelj and Luca Lindič.
- 2019 – He completed the first ascent of the north ridge of Latok I (Karakoram) with Tom Livingstone and Luka Stražar. In 2024, Česen and Livingstone accomplished one of the year’s most significant climbs — the West Ridge of Gasherbrum III. During their acclimatization on Gasherbrum II, they encountered Wörle, which initiated the collaboration that culminated in this year’s Cherireen Sar expedition.
Route & Conditions
- Mountain:Cherireen Sar (6,224m), first recorded ascent.
- Location:Near Kurdophin Sar, Karakoram, Pakistan; north of Shimshal.
- Approach:3-day trek from Shimshal, no settlements en route.
- Base Camp:3,800m, small support crew.
- High Camp:4,950m, bivouac site at ridge start.
- Route:2,400m climb; loose rock ridge to 5,500m, then 80° steep ice and snow.
- Difficulty:Rated D (very difficult) in alpine grading.
- Hazards:Extremely brittle rock, rockfall, unpredictable weather.
- Style:Unsupported alpine style, no fixed ropes, no supplemental oxygen.
Cherireen Sar (6,224m), photo:Aleš Česen
The Shimshal region of the Karakoram is rapidly establishing itself as a significant venue for contemporary alpinists, characterized by a silent competition to ascend its pristine six-thousand-meter peaks. These mountains present the level of challenge, dedication, and stylistic integrity that is increasingly lacking on the more populated giants such as K2, Nanga Parbat, or Gasherbrum I/II. Advocating for lightweight alpine ascents in this area not only sustains the adventurous essence of Himalayan mountaineering but also safeguards the sacred landscapes of the Baltoro, which are currently being mapped and adversely affected by the presence of large-scale commercial expeditions. The future of the Karakoram should be determined by those who approach it with respect, prioritizing the mountains themselves over mere summits.