In July 2025, Hélias Millerioux, Medhubidault, Muiz Uddin, and Adnan Khan Jaturie, in Karimabad, the heart of the Hunza Valley, open a new trad climbing route on the southeast ridge of Hoon Chhish above Malikamo Shikari, near the viewpoint on the waterfall of the Murku water channel. locally, the name of the climbing spot is called Hoon Sharain. Asking for this name from the locals would be very helpful for reaching the climbing spot. It is located just a 1h30 hike from the Karimabad main Bazar, ideal to start from the Baltiti fort chowk.
This 250m, 9-pitch mostly trad line offers solid rock, sustained cracks, and a few bolted sections. It is named the Bitan Fissure – The Shaman Crack, the first ever trad climbing route on such high elevation in Pakistan. The highlight of the climbing is the view of the Hunza valley and the 7000m peaks in the backdrop.
Ideal Time/Season
Best from late spring to early autumn.
Winter climbing is possible but cold. In summer, start early to avoid the afternoon heat.
Access and Approach
From Karimabad bazar, head towards Baltit Fort, then follow the trail to Ultar Meadow via the Murku water channel. Continue up the direction to Sharain from Malikamo Shikari (a stone-made cairn called Queen Victoria cairn), the obvious wall above the Malikamo Shikari on the left is the climbing spot. It is recommended to be accompanied by a local guide.
Time: ~1h30 walk from Karimabad main Bazar.
Pro tip
You can drive with four-wheel car to the bottom of Murku waterfall, from there it should take 40 minutes to climbing areas. Carry lot of water, mostly available at the Murku water channel.
Climbing Style
- Multi-pitch, mostly trad
- Crack climbing (off-width, hand, and finger)
- Some slab sections
- A0 aid possible on two pitches
Quick Facts
- Number of routes: 1 (Bitan Fissure)
- Grade range: 5+ to 6c (A0 aid possible)
- Height: ~250m
- Number of pitches: 9
- Recommended rope length: Two 60m ropes (pitches & abseil)
- Quickdraws needed: 8–10 (only for bolted sections)
- Rock type: High-quality granite
- Sun exposure: Morning to midday sun
- Bolting status: Belays bolted, some key moves bolted, rest trad
- First ascent: Hélias Millerioux, Muizz Din, Adnan Khan Jaturie, Medhi Bidault – July 2025
Safety & Local Considerations
- Mobile Signal: Good in Karimabad, weak near wall
- Water: Murku water channel streams in summer, but bring enough
- Avoid rockfall: people usually pass through the Murku water channel to the Ultar meadow.
Route Directory
Bitan Fissure – The Shaman Crack [Multi-pitch]
- Total height: ~250m
- Descent: Abseil via bolted belays (two 60m ropes recommended). Or you can hike down from the top back to the parking area at the bottom of Murku waterfall. The second option is to combine a climb with a hike by continuing the hike to Hoon Pass and descending to Ultar meadow, which would be a whole or two-day tour. There might be scrambling sections until the connecting to one of the old local shepherd trails.
Pitch breakdown:
- L1 – 6c – 45m – Off-width crack, 4 bolts
- L2 – 6b – 30m – Wide crack, 4 bolts
- L3 – 6a+ – 15m – Slab start, then A0 possible to free
- L4 – A0/6a or ~7++? – 15m – Steep technical section
- L5 – 6a+ – 40m – Sustained hand cracks
- L6 – 6b – 35m – Mixed hand/finger crack
- L7 – Walk – 10m – Easy traverse
- L8 – 5+ – 35m – Crack to slab
- L9 – 5+ – 50m – Long moderate finish
Topo
Acknowledgments
Thanks to Hélias Millerioux, Muizz Din, Adnan Khan Jaturie, Medhi Bidault for setting the route. The project was supported by Mathieu Maynadier, Zom Connection, and North Pakistan Adventure for gear and logistical support.
Compiled by: M Ajmal K. Masood with the help of Muiz Uddin
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