Beyond the Alps: The Untold Story of Hassan Najjarian, Iran’s Pioneer Solo Climber and First Iranian to Summit Mt. Everest

In August 1997, high within Pakistan’s Karakoram range, Mohammad Hassan Najjarian reached the summit of Gasherbrum II, standing at 8,035 meters above sea level. This achievement positioned him within the annals of Himalayan history; however, outside of Iran, his name went largely unrecognized. In the sphere of Western mountaineering, legends frequently emerge from the ridges of the Alps or the granite cliffs of Yosemite. Nevertheless, there exist climbers whose accomplishments transcend geographical boundaries and media exposure—individuals whose remarkable undertakings belong to the most remote and rugged terrains of the world. Hassan Najjarian is one such figure. As a free solo pioneer in Iran, an unwavering Himalayan climber, an author, and a mountain photographer, he has devoted decades to pushing the limits of his abilities while remaining largely outside the public eye of the western world.

Born Among Mountains

Najjarian was born in 1965 in Nahavand, Hamedan Province—a city surrounded by mountains. His father’s labor-intensive work instilled in him not only a robust physique but also an early understanding of endurance. “Whenever I finished my school or work,” he recalls, “I would go to the mountains to rejuvenate my spirit.” By the age of nine, he was already scaling local summits such as Kamar-e-Bar-afto, Ardasho, and the Blue Mane of the Green Mountain Range. At thirteen, he conquered Damavand, Iran’s tallest peak, and by the age of fifteen, he achieved the summit once again. In Tehran, Najjarian encountered established climbing organizations where he acquired essential technical skills. Despite limited access to adequate equipment or instructional literature during his military service, he demonstrated resourcefulness—fashioning ropes by hand, utilizing army boots for rock climbing, and lugging a heavy student backpack during winter ascents. These formative years honed both his creativity and resilience.

The Art of the Impossible: Free Solo on Alam-Kuh

Najjarian’s most notable climbs are frequently solo ascents—performed without ropes, protective gear, or opportunities for error. One ascent is particularly remarkable: in mid-August 1994, he achieved a free solo ascent of the Hary Rost Alaee Route on the northern face of Alam-Kuh, which stands at 450 meters, in a time of just 1 hour and 35 minutes. The crux of the climb, known as the “French Big Roof” (5.11d), required intricate high-steps and fingertip grips on frigid rock, with residual snow remaining on the ledges. He opted for a new 15-meter direct variation instead of the standard finish. The ascent was performed with an exceptional combination of speed and precision, comparable to any solo climb recorded in the history of Yosemite or the Dolomites—yet this achievement occurred in Iran, away from the attention of the global climbing community.

Climbs in the Mighty Karakoram

In 1997, Najjarian embarked on his inaugural expedition to the Pakistani Himalayas, successfully summiting Gasherbrum II. He returned in August 2003 with an Iranian team to attempt Gasherbrum I—an endeavor that would profoundly impact him. On 17^th August 2003 merely 100 meters from the summit, an avalanche struck, carrying two of his teammates, Mohammad Oraz and Moqbel Honarpajou, down 400 meters to an altitude of 7,200 meters. Although both survived the fall, they sustained severe injuries. Ongoing snowfall complicated rescue efforts, and after five arduous days, a helicopter was able to evacuate them to Islamabad. Unfortunately, Oraz succumbed to injuries sustained in a subsequent fall during the evacuation ten days later, while Honarpajou survived only to tragically lose his life years later in a climbing accident in Iran. The incident left profound emotional scars. Najjarian has candidly addressed the factors he believes played a role in this tragedy: negligence, the dismissal of warnings, and systemic failures within Iran’s mountaineering federation. “Critical minutes and hours for providing first aid passed without significant action,” he reflected, contemplating the circumstances surrounding the accident.

Remarkable Climbing and Mountaineering Activities  

• Winter ascents of most peaks in the Alborz range, including more than 50 successful ascents of Mount Damavand (5,671 m) via various faces and in different seasons.
• Climbing big walls in Iran, including speed ascents on Harry Rost Alaee, Polish and French routes on Alam-Kuh wall, and multiple routes on Bisotun wall.
• Free solo ascents of routes such as Oghabha, Ghosh, Janpanah-ha, Hamedaninha, Ghararagh, and more, on the 1,200-meter-high wall of Bisotun.
• Free solo of the Harry Rost Alaee route on Alam-Kuh wall in 1 hour 30 minutes from the base to the summit, covering 500 meters of height at a difficulty grade of 5.11d.
• Opened new routes (in partnership) on Bisotun wall (Parastoo, Mansoor, Yaad), Alam-Kuh wall (Shookoh route, Pol-e-Khab wall – Roja, Agger, Traverse) and on the walls in Nahavand, Boroujerd, Zanjan, and others (routes: Ra’ad, Tagarg, Yaad, Sogand…).
• Completed more than 25 successful climbs on the 700-meter-high wall of Alam-Kuh.
• Opened two new routes on Demir Kazik wall (Turkey) as a member of Iran’s national team in 1993. • Ranked in various indoor climbing competitions in Iran and participated in Asian competitions in Singapore in 1994.

Ascents in the Himalayas

• Gasherbrum II (8,035 m) – 1997 – Bronze Medal of the World
• Everest (8,848 m) – May 30, 1998 – Gold Medal of the World
• Makalu (8,463 m) – 2001 – Silver Medal of the World
• Lhotse (8,516 m) – 2002 – Gold Medal of the World
• Gasherbrum I (8,165 m) – Unfinished ascent, 2003 – Gold Medal of Asia
• Spantik (7,030 m) – 2004 – Bronze Medal of Asia
• Broad Peak (8,047 m) – 2008 – Bronze Medal of the World
• Muztagh Ata (7,546 m) – 2009 & 2010 – Silver Medal of Asia
• Manaslu (8,163 m) – 2011 – Bronze Medal of the World
• Cho Oyu (8,201 m) – 2014 – Silver Medal of the World

Other notable Climbs and Expeditions  

• Mera Peak and Island Peak in Nepal
• Ararat (5,137 m) in Turkey – 9 ascents
• Climbed in the Grand Teton, Yosemite (USA)
• Conducted and exhibited several mountain photography projects
• Author of the book Broad Peak, the Dream Land

A Mountaineer’s Philosophy

“Me and my camera, Me and the backpack filled with my memories, Me and the willingness to face the dangers of the world’s hardest paths, Me and the wrinkles on the faces of the purest people on earth… I have asked myself many times: why do you set out on journeys to the far unknown? I have sought the answer to this question — and dozens of others — but I could not find it in the lines on the faces of the people of this planet, nor in the roar of clouds from beyond the mountains, nor in the fleeting, secretive gaze of the children in distant villages. And if I still carry my home on my back and a piece of bread in my palm to beg from the unknown, it is for this reason”. Muhammad Hassan Najjarian

Eva Marton, a former Austrian diplomat and mountaineer who trained under his guidance in Iran, remarks, “Najjarian possesses a profound philosophy regarding mountaineering, having developed numerous skills independently. He is a formidable mountaineer who, unfortunately, is perhaps less well known to the world and western community, yet his impact is undeniable.”

An Unwritten Legacy 

Currently, Mohammad Hassan Najjarian remains largely unrecognized outside of Iran. In an age where climbing achievements are rapidly disseminated through social media, his most audacious ascents exist solely in the recollections of those who witnessed them or within the tattered pages of expedition records. On the anniversary of his ascent of Gasherbrum II, it is pertinent to recall that the narrative of mountaineering is inscribed not only on the polished granite of the Alps but also on the frigid, wind-eroded cliffs of regions often overlooked by the world. There, away from the limelight, Hassan Najjarian has been quietly composing his chapter — one audacious solo endeavour, many Himalayan summits. Beyond the peaks, his legacy endures: author, photographer, mountain philosopher, and the eternal legend of Iranian mountaineering.