“Yes, I have a dream… the West Face of K2.” — Kazuya Hiraide, 2023
It’s been a year since we lost Japanese climbers Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima on K2’s less-climbed West Face while they were tackling a bold new route alpine style. On July 27, 2024, the two disappeared into the unforgiving silence of the Karakoram. Still, their legacy continues to thrive—etched in the formidable beauty of the world’s tallest peaks and in the minimalist, exploratory climbing philosophy they both embraced.
Their groundbreaking achievements, particularly in Pakistan’s Karakoram, earned them three Piolet d’Or awards—the top international accolade in mountaineering—making them one of the most celebrated climbing pairs in recent history.
Shispare (7,611m): Ten Years, Four Attempts, One Breakthrough
Piolet d’Or 2018 – First alpine-style ascent of the Northeast Face of Shispare, Pakistan
The journey to clinching their first Piolet d’Or was marked by setbacks, sadness, and relentless determination. Between 2007 and 2015, Hiraide faced three failed attempts on the mighty and technical Northeast Face of Shispare. He tackled the peak alongside various partners, including the late Kei Taniguchi, who had to turn back at 5,700 meters in 2013 due to the risks posed by seracs. Taniguchi’s passing in 2015 hit Hiraide hard, leading him to consider stepping away from high-altitude climbing for a while.
But in 2017, joined by the undaunted Kenro Nakajima, Hiraide made a comeback to Shispare. Together, they achieved the third ascent of the peak—and the first in alpine style—by forging a 2,700-meter route rated WI5 M6, without any fixed ropes or external assistance. Their climb earned them their first Piolet d’Or together and reaffirmed Hiraide’s status as a leader in exploratory alpinism.
Rakaposhi (7,788m): A New Line on a Karakoram Icon
Piolet d’Or 2020 – First ascent of the South Face to Southeast Ridge of Rakaposhi, Pakistan
In 2019, Hiraide and Nakajima set their sights on another legendary peak in Pakistan: Rakaposhi, one of the most prominent mountains around. Renowned for its stunning beauty and significant elevation gain, it had never been climbed from its South Face—a steep, avalanche-prone wall that towers above the Hunza Valley.
Despite tough conditions, unpredictable weather, and considerable risks, the duo charted a new course from the South Face to the Southeast Ridge, again in alpine style. Their expedition lasted 21 days, including a grueling 14 days on the mountain without any resupply or porters. This ascent broke new ground—both in terms of the route and the approach—and earned them a second Piolet d’Or for their audacity and commitment to pure climbing.
Kuran Koh (Kuh-e-Koran) / Tirich Mir North Face (7,708m): The Final Triumph
Piolet d’Or 2024 (awarded posthumously) – First ascent of the North Face of Tirich Mir, Hindu Kush
Their last major accomplishment came in 2023 with a bold climb on Tirich Mir, the highest peak in the Hindu Kush. They tackled its previously unclimbed North Face, completing a challenging and graceful line that required all the skill, trust, and synergy they had developed over a decade of climbing together.
In a short documentary ROPE, released just before their deaths, Hiraide admitted that fear had escalated with age and experience. But it was Nakajima’s unwavering spirit that pushed him onward. “I’ve climbed many mountains, and now I’ve become afraid of them,” he confessed. “Kenro does it without a second’s hesitation. His courage is why I can climb these mountains.”
Their ascent of the North Face of Tirich Mir was the last climb they completed together, and it was honored with a posthumous Piolet d’Or in December 2024, accepted by Hiraide’s wife, Joko, and their children.
A Dream Deferred: K2’s West Face
The climb that ultimately took their lives was their most ambitious yet: a new route on K2’s West Face—one of the last great unclimbed lines in the Karakoram. They had dreamed of this for years. “I know I don’t have many years left before I retire,” Hiraide told El País in 2023. “But I’m hoping to achieve something monumental.”
On July 27, 2024, above Camp 2 at 7,500 meters, Hiraide fell while scouting the terrain below the second rock band. Multiple helicopter searches couldn’t reach the area. By July 30, with no signs of life and increasing danger from seracs and avalanches, the rescue efforts were sadly called off.
The Rope That Binds
Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima now stand among the legends of alpine history—not just for the peaks they conquered, but for the way they did it. They left no trash, no fixed lines, and no controversy—only respect and admiration. Their legacy survives not just in summit photos or award ceremonies, but in the countless climbers inspired to tackle unclimbed routes with a spirit of partnership, humility, and exploration.
Sources:
- Climbing.com – “Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima Confirmed Dead on K2’s West Face” (July 2024)
- Ishii Sports – Official Rescue Report, July 30, 2024
- ExplorersWeb – Interview with Kazuya Hiraide, 2022
- El País – Óscar Gogorza, “Kazuya Hiraide, el mejor alpinista del siglo XXI,” Sept 2023
- ROPE – Documentary film, 2023
- American Alpine Journal – First ascents of Shispare, Rakaposhi, and Tirich Mir