The K2 West Face: Honoring the Historic 1981 First Ascent of K2 by Nazir Sabir and Ohtani
Nazir Sabir negotiating summit slopes up the K2 West Face. Photo: Nazirsabir.com
“Then l thought we humans are often on the mercy of the forces of nature and we can only beg to be allowed to creep up the slopes of these heavenly places to merely spend few moments up there. It is very ignorant of the egoistic individuals to refer to conquering any mountain. These places are far more holier for humans be bragging about their successes”
These are the words of Nazir Sabir, the esteemed mountaineer from Pakistan, reflecting on August 7, 1981 — the date on which he became the first Pakistani to reach the summit of K2, alongside Japan’s Eiho Ohtani, who completed the first ascent of the daunting West Ridge of the world’s second-highest mountain. As we commemorate the 44th anniversary of this remarkable achievement, Nazir Sabir’s reflections serve as a reminder of the profound significance of climbing:
“Our struggle went on for 50 days up the harder and new route West Ridge/SSE Ridge of Chogory (K2 8616m) also called the ‘Mountain of Mountains’ the second highest mountain on the earth and the Crown of Karakoram Pakistan” Nazir Sabir.
This groundbreaking ascent is recognized as one of the most audacious climbs in the annals of Himalayan mountaineering — not only due to the technical challenges presented by the route, but also because of the extraordinary bravery, perseverance, and determination it required.
A New Route on the Savage Mountain
Prior to 1981, all successful ascents of K2 (8611 m) had occurred via the Southeast Ridge, more commonly referred to as the Abruzzi Spur — a path explored and named by the Duke of Abruzzi in 1909, who believed it to be the sole viable route to the summit. Subsequent endeavors to scale the northern, southern, and western faces had all proven unsuccessful.
This changed when the Japanese Waseda University Alpine Club, under the leadership of Teruo Matsuura, embarked on an ambitious expedition to ascend the uncharted West and Southwest Ridges. In this venture, they invited Nazir Sabir — one of Pakistan’s most promising climbers at that time — to join their team. This opportunity would transform Sabir’s life and alter the course of Pakistani climbing history.
The team approached via the Savoia Glacier, establishing their base camp at an elevation of 5350 m on June 19, with the assistance of 300 porters. From that point, the route ascended 3,300 meters through steep and fragmented terrain. The expedition fixed over 5,500 meters of rope, underscoring the complexity of their path. They faced weeks of storms, the challenges of high-altitude conditions, risks of avalanches, and the difficulty of technical pitches comprised of mixed snow and deteriorated rock. (American Alpine Journal 1982).
By early August, the expedition team had persevered through relentless weather conditions and established their final camp at an elevation of 8,045 meters (Camp V). They abandoned plans for a higher bivouac due to shortages of food and fuel. On August 6, 1981, climbers Ohtani, Yamashita, and Nazir Sabir commenced their summit attempt utilizing supplemental oxygen. Support climbers Yonemoto and Yabuta followed closely behind, carrying additional supplies.
“Atop K2 I had some higher moments of solace while my summit rope partner Eiho Otani was talking to BC celebrating our success and l was praying for the souls who remained floating in the higher heavens of Karakoram and specially those who become eternal part of K2” Nazir Sabir.
The final day of the ascent proved to be an extraordinary challenge. Above an altitude of 8,300 meters, the climbers, concerned that the cumbersome oxygen cylinders would hinder their progress, decided to stash them and continue their ascent without assistance. The difficult terrain necessitated a diversion away from the ridge, resulting in a time-consuming and perilous detour across treacherous rock and snow. By evening, they found themselves still 300 vertical meters from the summit.
Faced with no alternative, they were compelled to bivouac at an altitude of 8,512 meters. With no sleeping bags, stove, food, or oxygen, and temperatures plummeting below -30°C, they endured a night of sheer survival.
“The night before three of us spent the night at 8512m in a snow cave that we dug out after three hours struggle and later we came to know this was the highest night anyone spent at the time on the way up to the summit,” Nazir Sabir .
Summit and History
The following morning, August 7, dawned clear and bright. Nazir and Ohtani continued their struggle upward, while Yamashita, exhausted, remained behind—merely an hour from the summit. At 11:25 a.m., Nazir Sabir reached the apex of K2. Holding a Pakistani flag in one hand and offering prayers in his heart, he stood atop the most formidable mountain in the world—not only as the first Pakistani to achieve this feat but also as one of only two climbers to conquer the virgin West Ridge.
“It was the most meaningful moment in our lives,” he later reflected. “The most important thing I was able to do up there was to pay tribute, respect, and prayers for those who have become eternal parts of the Black Pyramid… ‘Chogori,’ also known as K2.”
Their descent proved equally treacherous. It took an additional three days to return to base camp, and just as they arrived, inclement weather set in once more—snow fell incessantly for a week. As expedition leader Matsuura astutely noted, “We had almost been denied success.” ( AAJ 1981).
Legacy of the West Ridge
Even four decades later, the West Ridge of K2 remains one of the least traversed routes on the mountain. Its intricate technical challenges, susceptibility to avalanches, and logistical difficulties render it a formidable endeavor, even for contemporary climbers. However, for Nazir Sabir, Eiho Ohtani, and the entire Waseda team, August 7, 1981, marked a day when courage, skill, and the spirit of international camaraderie united to create history on the Savage Mountain.
Nazir Sabir, the pioneer alpinist from Hunza, Pakistan. Photo: Nazirsabir.com
Nazir Sabir: A Pioneer of Pakistani Alpinism
Nazir Sabir’s mountaineering career commenced long before his landmark ascent of K2. Hailing from the Hunza Valley in Gilgit-Baltistan, Sabir’s affinity for the mountains extends beyond mere climbing; he is also a dedicated naturalist. The conservation of the natural habitat, including its flora and fauna, holds significant importance for him, and he adheres to a vegetarian lifestyle, a rarity among high-altitude climbers (Source: nazirsabir.com).
Sabir’s climbing journey began with a Japanese expedition to Passu Peak, reaching 7,284 meters in 1974. The subsequent year, he participated in a German expedition attempting to climb Nanga Parbat, where he achieved an elevation of 6,700 meters as a trainee. In 1976, he accomplished the first ascent of Paiyu Peak, which stands at 6,660 meters, alongside Col. Manzoor Hussain and Major Bashir, as part of the inaugural Pakistani expedition organised by the Alpine Club of Pakistan.
Nazir Sabir, the Pakistani to summit Mount Everest, on May 7, 2000. Photo: Nazirsabir.com.
In 1977, he was a key member of the largest joint Japan-Pakistan expedition to K2, which endeavored to scale the classic Abruzzi Spur. Although Sabir’s summit attempt was thwarted by snowstorms at an altitude of 8,280 meters, the expedition represented a significant advancement, successfully placing seven climbers at the summit and achieving only the second ascent of K2 since the Italians in 1954.
Tragedy befell Sabir in July 1980 when he lost his elder brother, Inayat Shah, during an SSG expedition to Diran (7,257 m). They had aspired to climb Broad Peak together the following year, a dream unfulfilled due to an avalanche that entombed Shah and his fellow climbers during a storm at Camp 3.
In 1981, Sabir received an invitation from his Japanese colleagues at Waseda University to partake in their expedition targeting the West and Southwest Ridges — a bold and innovative deviation from the conventional Abruzzi route. Despite the notorious difficulty of this path, which included a tragic history involving the death of British climber Nick Estcourt in 1978, Sabir and Ohtani succeeded where others had faltered.
The expedition was subsequently documented in a film titled 50 Day Struggle, which was broadcast throughout Japan, elevating Nazir’s profile to that of a household name.
In 1982, Sabir ascended both Gasherbrum II (8,035 m) and Broad Peak (8,047 m) in alpine style, alongside Reinhold Messner and fellow Pakistani Sher Khan, achieving the summits within a week, a remarkable feat at the time for two 8,000-meter peaks.
Distancing himself from a political career, Nazir Sabir ultimately made history as the first Pakistani to summit Everest in 2000 and became an advocate for mountain conservation, environmental education, and the rights of mountain communities.
Nazir Sabir and Reinhold Messner, Rawalpindi, 1979. Photo: Nazirsabir.com
From Tragedy to Legacy: Nazir Sabir and the Hasegawa Memorial School in Hunza
In October 1991, Nazir Sabir returned to his home mountain in Karakoram, this time undertaking a challenging ascent of Ultar Sar (7388m), one of the most formidable peaks overlooking Hunza. Accompanied by two of Japan’s most esteemed mountaineers, Tsuneo Hasegawa and Hoshino, the expedition began with high hopes but quickly turned tragic. An accident during the climb resulted in the untimely death of Hasegawa, a legendary figure renowned for his remarkable solo ascents and unyielding spirit in the most inhospitable of environments.
Deeply affected by the incident, Nazir Sabir later expressed, “Losing Hasegawa on that mountain was not just the loss of a friend; it was the loss of a soul that truly belonged to these high places.”
In the ensuing days, Hasegawa’s wife, Masami Hasegawa, undertook a courageous and emotional week-long endeavor to recover her husband’s body. With the support of the local community and Nazir Sabir’s assistance, they succeeded in bringing Hasegawa back home, laying him to rest at the base camp of Ultar, where the mountain he cherished became his final resting place.
However, from this profound grief arose a newfound purpose. Inspired by both the tragedy and her husband’s love for Hunza, Masami Hasegawa, with the support of Nazir Sabir and the local community, dedicated herself to memorializing his legacy in a meaningful manner. The concept, conceived within the visionary circles of Karimabad, was to establish a world-class educational institution in Hasegawa’s honor. Nazir’s involvement was critical, as he served not only as a mountaineer-turned-activist but also as a connector between the people of Hunza and Masami’s vision.
Hasegawa Memorial School and College, Karimabad Hunza, in the shadow of Ultar Sar, where the Japanese climber Hasegawa lost his life.
The outcome was the Hasegawa Memorial Public School and College, a modern educational center in Karimabad that has since emerged as a symbol of cross-cultural friendship, resilience, and hope. Born from a tragedy on the mountain, the school now serves as a living memorial, educating generations of Hunza’s youth with a global and ethical perspective.
Today, the school continues to flourish, serving as a beacon of quality education in the region and a powerful reminder that even in the most challenging circumstances, the mountains can give rise to new beginnings.
“He Listens to Mountains”: A Tribute from Karim Shah Nizari on Nazir Sabir
Karim Shah Nizari, an accomplished climber, advocate for mountain awareness, and long-time associate of Nazir Sabir, reflects upon the esteemed mountaineer’s legacy, philosophy, and profound relationship with the majestic mountains of Pakistan. Karim Shah remarks,
“Nazir Sabir was not merely born in the mountains; he is inherently a part of them.”
Over the years, Nazir and Nizari have organized numerous mountain-focused lectures at Quaid-i-Azam University.
“What distinguishes him is not solely his climbing achievements but rather his approach to each mountain as a sentient being. He does not conquer them; he listens to them.”He adds:
“I have heard him express on numerous occasions, ‘Mountains are temples — eternal, innocent, alive.’ When Nazir discusses a climb, one can sense that deep reverence. Whether he speaks of K2, Everest, or Nanga Parbat, his narrative is devoid of ego; it is rooted in respect.”
From right; Karim Shah Nizari(1st), Nazir Sabir(3rd) and Danial Nardi(5th) at Quaid-i- Azam University, Islamabad.
Reflecting on a particular experience on Nanga Parbat, he recounted, “During an avalanche, I felt my soul detach from my body — I genuinely believed I was finished. I sensed my soul ascend before the mountain, for some reason, returned my breath to me.” This sentiment stemmed not from fear, but from a sense of awe.“Even now, he maintains a profound connection to these landscapes. He champions environmentalism not as a trend, but because the glaciers, meadows, and peaks are integral to his being. He continues to assert that the mountains communicate with him, and I have no doubt of his sincerity.” One of the most indelible statements he ever imparted to me was: ‘To die on a mountain is to become part of eternity.’ This is not a death wish, but rather Nazir’s perspective on the vastness of our experiences in those heights — the sublime and the sacred.”
Sources:
Matsuura, Teruo. “K2’s West Face.” American Alpine Journal, 1982.
Nazir Sabir, personal reflections shared publicly, 2025.
Biography and historical details from nazirsabir.com.
Interview archives and Waseda University Expedition reports.
