The Piolet d’Or, or Golden Ice Axe, celebrates the year’s most outstanding alpine-style ascents — a true “Oscar of mountaineering.” Among the significant first ascents of 2024, eight remarkable climbs from the Karakoram and adjoining ranges have been featured, showcasing the region’s growing status as a global arena for elite alpinists.
From the first ascent of Muchu Chhish (7,453m) to new technical lines on Gasherbrum III, Yashkuk Sar, Thui II, Yawash Sar, Mashallah Sar, Virjerab Sar, and Sckem Brakk, these achievements reflect the boldness, innovation, and pure alpine spirit that define the Piolet d’Or.
Each ascent demonstrates the immense climbing potential of the Karakoram — where the world’s finest mountaineers continue to test their limits on untouched faces and elegant new routes.
✨ Eight climbs, one legendary range — the Karakoram stands as the new competition ground for modern alpinism.
Entry Format Key
Location / Peak / Route Name
Region / Country
Climbers involved
Date (Month or range)
Type (Alpine, Big Wall, Ice, Mixed, Free Solo, etc.)
Key Highlights / Significance
🔗 External link or source
Thui II (6,523m)
Hindu Raj
Route: Spider’s Thread (1,450m, ED+ M7 A2)
Sept 21–23
Climbers: Kei Narita, Yuu Nishida, Yudai Suzuki (Japan)
Style: Technical mixed climb on the west face, alpine style
A bold new line on a remote peak in the Hindu Raj. Climbed and rappelled the same route.
No link available
Yashkuk Sar (6,667m)
Batura Muztagh
Route: Tiger Lily Buttress (2,000m, AI5+ M6 A0) via the north pillar
Sept 19–23
Climbers: August Franzen, Dane Steadman, Cody Winckler (USA)
Technical ice and mixed line, traversed and descended via west and north faces
First ascent of a major unclimbed peak in the Batura region
No link available
Yawash Sar (6,258m)
Ghujerab Mountains
Route: West-northwest face (~800m)
Sept 11–14
Climbers: Mick Fowler, Victor Saunders (UK)
Traditional alpine style
A new summit reached by two legendary British climbers
- 🔗 AAC Report
Mashallah Sar (6,043m)
Ghujerab Mountains
Route: West face (1,000m, TD WI4 M4)
July 26
Climbers: Oswaldo Freire, Joshua Jarrín (Ecuador), Masha Gordon (UK), Jacques Sturm (France)
Committed alpine route, climbed and descended same line
A technically engaging and international effort on a little-known peak
- 🔗 AAC Report
Muchu Chhish (7,453m)
Batura Muztagh
Route: South spur and west ridge (2,100m, M4 70°)
July 2–5
Climbers: Jaroslav Bánský, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák (Czech Republic)
First ascent of the highest unclimbed named peak in Pakistan
Massive achievement — 20km of climbing above base camp
- AAC Report
Virjerab Sar (6,616m GPS)
Virjerab Muztagh
Route: West flank and north-northwest ridge
August 9
Climbers: Phil de-Beger (UK), Lorenzo Heis (Switzerland), Aleksi Mujirishvili (Georgia)
First known ascent, a significant addition to exploration in the Virjerab region
- 🔗 AAC Report
Gasherbrum III (7,958m)
Baltoro Muztagh
Route: Edge of Entropy (nearly 3,000m, M6) via west ridge
July 31 – Aug 4
Climbers: Aleš Česen (Slovenia), Tom Livingstone (UK)
Traversed mountain, descended via east face and GII’s normal route
First ascent of the west ridge; adds a major line to an iconic Karakoram peak
Sckem Brakk (5,259m)
Tagas Mountains
Route: Azzardo Extremo (900m, 26 pitches, 7a A3)
August 21–26
Climbers: Matteo De Zaiacomo, Chiara Gusmeroli (Italy)
Big-wall style, highly technical free and aid climbing on a remote granite tower
References
American Alpine Club Publications: AAC Report