The first ascent of the Southeast Pillar of Ultar Sar (7,388m) in Pakistan’s Karakoram range has been accomplished by a group of elite alpinists, including Ethan Berman, Sebastian Pelletti, and Maarten van Haeren. The three took on the 3,100-meter tricky face in alpine style, with the support of the Alpine Club of Canada’s John Lauchlan Memorial Award and the American Alpine Club’s Cutting Edge Grant.
One of the remaining significant unclimbed difficulties in the range was the Southeast Pillar, sometimes referred to as the Walker Spur of the Karakoram or the Hidden Pillar. Ultar Sar, which rose 5,300 meters above the Hunza River, was a significant challenge. The group persisted and completed this incredible achievement despite earlier attempts, including a fatal occurrence in 2018.
In the climbing world, their ascent represents a major turning point, demonstrating competence and perseverance. The group’s success is evidence of the attraction of Pakistan’s Karakoram range, which is renowned for its difficult ascents and stunning scenery.
According to a climber’s Instagram post: “Often climbing at night, we felt the pull of a growing moon, illuminating the mountain above as the house lights of the Nagar Valley faded below. Pushed beyond our individual abilities, we found collective strength and experienced the richness of climbing as one.”
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route details
Mountain: The Ultar Sar (7,388m)
Route: 3,100m Southeast Pillar
Climbers:Ethan Berman, Sebastian Pelletti, and Maarten van Haeren are the climbers.
Style: Alpine.
Support: American Alpine Club’s Cutting Edge Grant and Alpine Club of Canada’s John Lauchlan Memorial Award
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