New Route Opened on Spantik’s East Ridge: Climbing Style or Number of Summits?

New route opened on East Ridge of Spantik Peak karakoram range

Muiz Ud Din of Pakistan and Mathieu Maynadier of France have opened a remarkable new alpine-style route on the East Ridge of 7,029-meter Spantik. This milestone reaffirms climbing as a craft rooted in style, ethics, and connection with nature, rather than just a game of 8,000-meter summits. Their climb, accomplished in a classical alpine style […]

Historic First Ascent: Southeast Pillar of Ultar Sar Finally Climbed

The first ascent of the Southeast Pillar of Ultar Sar (7,388m) in Pakistan’s Karakoram range has been accomplished by a group of elite alpinists, including Ethan Berman, Sebastian Pelletti, and Maarten van Haeren. The three took on the 3,100-meter tricky face in alpine style, with the support of the Alpine Club of Canada’s John Lauchlan […]

Col. Sher Khan, the Mountain Lion: A Forgotten Lead Climber

Col. Sher Khan, the Mountain Lion, and mountaineering legacy

Col. Sher Khan’s (Retd) journey was not only defined by the conquest of summits but also by the fulfillment of a legacy—one that is etched in the grand shape of Rakaposhi. This mountain had determined his destiny long before he initially crossed its slopes. Sher Khan narrates; “I would like to say that Rakaposhi, my […]

Sirbaz Khan’s Return to Annapurna: A Symbol of Unfinished Dreams and Local Legacy

Sirbaz Khan, the pakistani mountaineer to summit all 14 8000 meter peaks in the world

In the far reaches of the Himalayas, Pakistan’s famous mountaineer Sirbaz Khan is once again climbing on the steep slopes of Annapurna. His latest Instagram post from the foot of the gigantic 8,091-meter-high mountain not only marks a personal challenge but also signifies the hopes and dreams of an entire generation of Pakistani mountaineers and […]

The K2 Betrayal: When Hunza Tigers Missed the First Ascent of K2

Hunza Tigers, Nanga Barbat first ascent 1953

The mountaineering community has overlooked the significant roles played by indigenous climbers, such as the Sherpas, Hunzokutz, and Baltis, during the Himalayan and Karakoram expeditions. Unlike many Western climbers who sought national prestige and global recognition in the race to be the first to summit, mountain communities in the Karakoram and Himalayas participated in early […]